Sunday, October 7, 2012

Holy Mole!



            Since I was a little girl, I have probably been to about twenty weddings in my whole life. It is hard to remember all of them, but there is one that I will never forget and it definitely marked my life forever.

           The city of Oaxaca is one of the most beautiful colonial cities in Mexico. Our culture, food, traditions and humble people, makes this place irresistible. Weddings in Oaxaca are unpredictable and fun! When I was seven years old, I went to my cousin’s wedding. In the traditional Mexican weddings, you will find more than 50 godfathers. From the godfather of the ring, the godfather of the banquet, the godfather of drinks, the godfather of gifts, the godfather of music, etc, etc.  During this celebration, the tradition is that each of the godfathers will dance and celebrate with the gifts. However, in Oaxaca we have very unusual gifts. For instance, live chickens, turkeys, donkeys, cows, and goats,  to furniture like chairs, tables, and even toilets. This is the part that I enjoyed the most. It was hilarious watching my dad dancing and struggling with the turkey. At the end, these animals will become part of the weeding banquet and our abuelitas will cook something special for that day.

            So after a few hours, everyone is waiting for the delicious food to come. We start with a fideo soup with beans and tortillas. Then the big meal comes next, but this time, I was a little confused… The plate had a chicken breast with an unusual black salsa on top. I didn’t know what it was… So I asked my mom. For the first time I was looking at Black Mole! My mom told me that only in Oaxaca, we have more than 30 types of mole, and in Mexico we have more than 300 choices of mole. But what is mole? Why is it black? Why does it smell like chocolate? How will it taste? I had so many questions in my mind, but I was ready to try it.

            I took the first bite… Holy Mole! This is incredibly delicious! It was rich, thick, sweet, spicy, and with a touch of pleasant bitterness. I could also taste a little taste of chocolate flavor combined with smoked chiles. Every time I took a bite and closed my eyes, I could see fireworks in my mind. I was not paying attention to anything else, I was enjoying the moment with my new best friend. From that moment, I wanted to know everything about mole!
 
           I learned that the state of Oaxaca is called “the land of the seven moles”, with these being named mole negro, amarillo, colorado, verde, chichilo, coloradito and mancha mantel. All differently colored and flavored, depending on the distinctive chiles and herbs. My favorite is mole negro, it has more than 30 ingredients. From cinnamon, peanuts, burned tortillas, to ten types of chiles, but the taste of chocolate and the distinct addition of a plant named hoja santa, makes this sauce the most complex and difficult to make. As a result, the labor intensive part of mole is the toasting and grinding, for this reason, we find fewer people making this exquisite sauce. Nowadays they sell commercially jars available for mole, but the tradition of the grandmothers and cousins making the mole is just part of our proud household tradition. Enjoying the moment with family members and the newlyweds, makes this festivity very special. Eating mole and having a little toast of mezcal makes you become more closer to your family, is a unique bond that will last forever.

            In Mexico, mole is synonym of fiesta and tradition. It constitutes to the classic celebration of weddings, birthdays, baptisms and other festivities. Mole is part of my life, with respect and admiration, now I understand my customs. A legacy of those who gave life to this land, that maintain us attached to our roots, it makes me more proud of where I came from. Every time I eat mole, it just brings a sentimental value of comfort and joy to my family members that still live in Oaxaca and it brings back childhood memories of happiness. The culinary techniques, customs, traditions and culture make me a proud citizen of Oaxaca, and I know one day I will teach my children the roots of the Mexican traditions.

 

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